Sits At Natural Waist

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Personally, I like to measure all the way around as the back of the pants may be wider than the front. Remove the pins as you sew. I hate sewing, so usually just keep trying on trousers until I find some that fit. The inseam is from the crotch seam down to the hem.

Watch video · For example, if your waist circumference is 30 inches and your jeans waistband is 28 inches: =2+1=3. Your denim insertion piece will need to be 3 inches wide. To determine the length of the denim insertion piece, measure the raw edge of the cut you made in .
The pants have a center back seam, but the waistband does not. This means that you have to make a center back seam in order to reduce the size of the waistband. This is a Multi Step Process In this example, I will take in the waist 3½
If your waist is quite a bit smaller than your hips, you may suffer from “gaposis” when you buy jeans to fit your hips. This leaves plenty of room in the waistband, creating a clear view of, ahem, you know, your unmentionables. Well, there is a fix for your jeans to help keep those.
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This situation seems to present a quandary to many people. Most garment manufacturing companies seem to think that waist sizes jump two inches at a time. Unfortunately, this means that if you’re an in-between size, you either have to wear your pants too loose or get a tailor to take them in. Right.
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If your denim patch doesn't match exactly, err on the side of slightly darker than lighter. It'll be somewhat hidden by the center belt loop, so slightly darker will draw less attention to it. Use a tape measure to determine the circumference of the waistband on your jeans.

Write that number down and save it for later. Use a sharp pair of scissors to cut directly down the center back of your jeans to the back yolk. You can cut down farther if you need more room in the hips as well. Now measure around your waist or hips where the waistband of your jeans sits. Then add 1 inch to that number for a seam allowance.

For example, if your waist circumference is 30 inches and your jeans waistband is 28 inches: Your denim insertion piece will need to be 3 inches wide. To determine the length of the denim insertion piece, measure the raw edge of the cut you made in the center back and add 1 inch. If you don't have a serger to finish the raw edges of your denim piece, simply adjust your sewing machine to be a short stitch length and a long zigzag stitch.

Place the denim piece under the cut in the back of the jeans and mark the opening onto the insertion piece with a washable marker or tailor's chalk. Finish the raw edges of the insertion piece using the wide zigzag stitch that you used on the top edge. Change the thread in your machine to match your jeans and use the same wide zigzag stitch to sew the denim piece into the opening. Go slow and make sure you are catching the raw edge of the jeans. Remove the pins as you sew.

Change your machine to a narrow zigzag stitch, but keep it on a short stitch length. Next, take in the seat of the pants, from waist to crotch. Following that, create a new seam in the waistband and take it in enough to match the seat of the pants. Lastly, put it all back together, replacing the beltloop if necessary.

Take pictures, if you can. Note the single beltloop in the center. Some pants have two beltloops a few inches on either side of the seam. You can see here that it is 3. This is a dramatic amount to take out of the waist. These are large size pants. Pin it to the garment so you know where it is when you need it.

Using a seam ripper, partially separate the waistband from the pants. Rip from the center toward the sides. Rip the amount you're taking out plus 4". Scoot the waistband out of the way. Lay existing center back seam facing right. Flatten it with the top raw edges meeting.

You can press the seam flat if you want. This will be the amount you are moving the line of stitching to the left. You divide by 2 because the fabric is double thickness here. Continue pinning down the length of the crotch, tapering as you go. Joining the new marks with the old seam should happen gradually, 12" or more from the waist.

You will start out at the waist and follow your pin marks toward the crotch of the pants. Make sure your tapering is gradual. The stitching is only a half inch or so from the existing stitching. If you have angled this new line gradually, your seat seam area will be smooth. You can use a seam ripper or a blade. Sometimes the existing stitching is a chain stitch, and you can pull it all out in one continuous length.

Leaving about 1" per side, serge the excess from the new seam allowance. Then you can let the pants out later if necessary. Taper into the existing serging.

First press double thickness, to set the stitches. Then press it open, on the inside of the pants. Then press the right side of the pants. Smooth out the left side of it and put a mark pin where it lines up with the new center back seam. Smooth the waistband and mark where it meets the center back seam. It should measure exactly the same amount that you originally needed to take out of the waist.

Either measure and divide by 2, or fold it in half, matching your two pins, then mark the fold halfway point. It will be at the beltloop, if you had one in the center. Careful attention to detail here prevents your seam from being off center when you connect the waistband to the pants. Fold it at this center mark pin. Measure inward the amount that you wrote down in Step Pin from end to end.

It gets stitched the same amount from end to end. Sew slowly, as the fabric tends to bunch up and get misaligned. Restitch it if there is any buckling or unevenness. Pay particular attention to where the seams intersect, midway through. Leave a seam allowance of at least 1", so you have room for adjustment.

For a smaller alteration, just split the fold, so you can press open. Open the seam allowance.

After we find it:

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